What is the best setup for my MaX5?
We can not really answer this as this varies by track, car and driver. But we can give you a bsaic setup that is a good starting point:

Ride height: 120mm (measured with driver in the car and from the bottom of the sill)

Front
Camber: -2.5 graden
Caster: +3.5 tot +5.0 graden (equal both sides)
Toe: 1mm out
SpaX shocks: 14 clicks
GaZ shocks: 14 clicks

Rear
Camber: -2.0 graden
Toe: 1.0mm in
SpaX shocks: 12 clicks
GaZ shocks: 12 clicks

What can be done with the engine?
You may skim the cilinderhead up to 0.635mm less then the OEM specified 134mm. You are not allowed to make any further changes from original, however you can rebuild. This means you can do a valve cut based original specs. Replacing valve stem seals is not a performance gain, but is good precausion / maintenance.

The bottom end of the engine also should not be changed and factory specs should be followed on a rebuild. According factory specs 0.5 oversize pistons are allowed.
Putting in oversized pistons means you are doing a full rebuild and includes pistons, piston rings and machining in a workshop.

Skimming the cilinderhead is a relatively cheap job if you can do the work yourself. Skimming a cilinderhead will cost about 60 euro. Machining a bottom end will cost about 350 euro and you will need a minimum of 800 euro in parts, like pistons, piston rings and gasket set...

Do not expect a miracle!
Skimming a cilinder head and doing a valve cut is relatively cheap and recommendable.
ATTENTION: Only take of the head when cold and according to workshop manual to prevent distortion.
A complete rebuild costs a lot of money (depending on how much you can do yourself) and a lot of time. What you gain depends on the quality of the work done. An engine with good compression can also become worse!

What is the easiest way to get the dashboard out?
On the left- and righthand side of the dashboard (close to the doors you will find some coverplates. Behind these are a couple of small bolts. After that you unscrew the steering column. After that 1 small bolt in the centre of the dash in the middle of the windscreen. Last step is the 4 bolts at the bottom of the centre console (left and right) also behind coverplates.
The dashboard has a centre frame and should be lifted a little first, then backwards.

Now the dasboard should come out completely including the frame. Now you can remove the heater and other parts that are no longer required.

I have removed the heater. What should I do with the two coolinghoses running into the driver compartment?
You can use a 17mm inside diameter hose from the exit on the back of the engine to the intake on the side. This closes the cooling system again and leaves the heater out. In the hose you can easily put a temperature sensor if you wish to be able to follow your cooling water temperature.

I have a car, where should I start?
We have a checklist for interior, exterior, engine and race prep. Questions? send an e-mail oor give us a call

How do I recognise the allowed differentials?
On this picture the righthand side of an open diff with final drive ratio 4,3:1 which can be recognised by the 8 equal lumbs on the flanges.


This picture is the righthand side of a 1.6L VLSD (Viscous Limited Slip Diff) which can be recognised by the different flanges vs. the open diff.


This picture is for you to be able to see the difference between a 1.8L and 1.6L diff. Left is the 1.8L with rubber damper and larger house, on the right is the 1.6L. Only the 1.6L is allowed!


How can I add ballast weight to the car to get to the minimum weight of 960kg incl driver:

For the DNRT regulations
Ballast. Placement of the ballast weight is free, but should be on the bottom of the chassis in lead or steel plates of maximum 10kg each. These should be held by a minimum of 2 bolts in quality 10,9 or higher. Where the bolts are fitted the chassis should be strenghtened with a minimum of thickness of 3mm and a surface of 40 cm2.

Here is an example of an english car. These are steel plates.


What about the rollcage?
As we race with car that originate from 1993 or earlier it is allowed within the regulations of the DNRT to have a self build rollcage. However for your own safety we do not recommend this. A professionally build rollcage is a good investment also in case regulations would change in the future. The rollcage will always be inspected at the first race by the TC of the DNRT.

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